Chef Chris Cosentino
written by: Travis Mason
Chris Cosentino is one of the country's best Chefs and considered to be one of the authorities on Offal cooking. Offal is a culinary term that refers to the entrails, internal organs and extremities such as lungs, heart, liver, tongue, feet and head. In the US, foods like chitterlings, liver, gizzards and the infamous rocky mountain oysters are fairly common. In other parts of the world, using these bits and pieces is a bit more common, haggis, steak and kidney pie, foie gras, menudo, sweetbreads and head cheese are all delicious and found on menus all over the world.
Chris Cosentino is the Chef at Incanto Restaurant & Wine Bar in San Francisco. The word on the street is if you go to Incanto, you should go all out, take some friends and get the "leg of beast" or the "whole pig". Chris has been on Iron Chef America, competed on The Next Iron Chef and is now on Chefs vs. City on the Food Network.
What motivates you?
There are a lot of things that motivate me to cook. I am always striving for perfection in technique and flavor while giving great hospitality to the guest. But it's important to recognize that true perfection isn't possible. I'm also motivated by a fear of failure; I was voted most likely to end up in prison when I graduated from high school. Finally, I have a crew of really loyal cooks who turn themselves inside out for me and I don't want to let them or my business partner down.
Did you cook as a kid? What are some early memories of spending time in the kitchen?
Growing up in New England I cooked all the time with my family. My mother's family is English, my father's family is Italian. There were always cooking adventures in the back yard garden, or clamming and fishing expeditions. I jarred tomatoes and made dandelion wine with my great grandmother, Rosalie.
How did you get in to the restaurant business? What are some early line cook memories?
I started as a dish washer at IHOP in Rhode Island at 15 years old and it went from there. What's amazing is that the chefs who I most hated when I worked with them are the ones who I most appreciate. Now I understand why I was getting in trouble. Learning to shut my mouth was a key turning point in my career.
You live in one of the world's best restaurant cities, what are some of your favorite places to eat and what do you order?
It depends on the day, for sushi I love Sebo; it's the only spot I will go. Sebo has amazing fish and great izakayia on Sundays. For Sichuan Chinese it's Spices on 8th Avenue for tan tan noodles, chili chicken wings, twice-cooked bacon, and spicy beef tendon. I love Blue Bottle in Mint Plaza for the Kyoto-style iced coffee and Humphrey Slocombe for their killer ice cream flavors.
If you weren't a Chef, what do you think you would be doing with your time?
I don't know. That's why I am a still a chef. I have been in a kitchen since I was 14, so I know nothing else.
What are some of your favorite cookbooks?
I collect cookbooks. I can't single out one favorite, but I especially like books from the UK as the food tends to be more realistic and honest. A lot of times I like the antique books with cool lost recipes. You can't just get ideas from taking a quick look at the photos; you have to really spend time reading them.
What advice to you have for anyone that is looking to get in to offal cooking?
Make sure the offal is from a reliable source. Next, do your homework on how to cook these cuts. Making and serving bad food can have lasting and permanent damage on someone; one bad dish and they might turn their nose up to offal forever.
How important is nose to tail cooking and why?This is about giving respect to an animal for giving its life for food. Plus, each and every part tastes great in its own way.
What would your last meal me?
Boccalone blood sausage, Quilcene oysters, 2 sunny side up duck eggs, grilled bread and hitachino white ale
What are some of your favorite knives?
I have so many, each for a different job, so I can't pick a favorite. I love the history and tradition put into Japanese knives. They are rich with culture and amazing in quality.
Who are some Chefs that are doing cool things? What Chefs inspire you?
Daniel Patterson of Coi is amazing and driven. Also James Syhabout of Commis is making great food locally. There are so many great chefs to give credit to and each one inspires me in a different way so I can't just pick one. Fergus Henderson, Martin Picard, David Chang...the list could go on and on.
I know that you have tattoos, do you have any food tattoos?
I have a stove modeled after my grandmother's and a pig diagram from England. Plus a bunch of other non-food tattoos, like an illustration of a bike race from The National Gallery on my back. My wife took me to see it on our first date.
For more on Chris Cosentino:
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